I know I don’t tend to share underwear photos on this blog much (since I now have Big Cup Little Cup for that), but these ones are a bit different so I chose to share them here: I made this set myself! So rather than this being a review/fitting post, it’s more of a sewing one, which fits here better at the moment, although I may do a fitting style one at BCLC too.
This this bra and knickers set is probably my biggest achievement of late, because who would have thought when I bought a sewing machine nearly a year ago that I’d still be sewing now and making even my own undergarments?!
I found the Watson bra pattern on Pinterest just before Christmas and immediately emailed it to Ben to ask him to buy it for me as a present, since we were both a bit stuck on what to get. Plus it was available in a size that would actually fit me! I read through the pattern booklet straight away after receiving it, but I was a little bit overwhelmed by all the different types of fabric you could use. I just didn’t get all the terms, especially around stretch fabrics, different weights and names, since the UK isn’t particularly big on stretch fabrics or lycra which this pattern calls for and I had never done any lingerie sewing before.
A few days later, though, I discovered that Amy at Cloth Habit was running a Watson sew along just for this pattern – amazing! I immediately joined the Facebook group and have been reading every bit of info I can find.
What do you need to sew a bra?
Following Amy’s recommendations, I bought all the pattern pieces and notions from Sewing Chest, plus a few extras for future projects or in case I messed up the first time. Obviously, I only used a few of them for this bra:
- Stretch Nina Stripe (sherbert pink – 50% stretch each way)
- White power mesh
- White Tricot (lining)
- Bra Strap Plush Back 13mm (for shoulder straps)
- Plush Back Elastic 8mm
- Hook/eye back closure
- Gold rings/sliders
I decided to start with the bra since that was the main reason I chose this pattern. It’s an unlined soft bra (or soft cup bra) without underwires, and you can make either the normal band or the longline option. The Cloth Habit Watson Bra comes in a wide size range, from smaller bands to larger cup sizes, which is brilliant. If you’ve been around here a while, you’ll know I struggle with finding bras that balance a small band with a large cup size.
I decided to start with the bra since that was the main reason I chose this pattern. It’s an unlined soft bra (or soft cup bra) without underwires, and you can make either the normal band or the longline option. The Cloth Habit Watson Bra comes in a wide size range, from smaller bands to larger cup sizes, which is brilliant. If you’ve been around here a while, you’ll know I struggle with finding bras that balance a small band with a large cup size.
In UK sizing I’m a 28GG/H, but remember: this pattern uses US sizes without double letters. It’s critical to check your measurements against the Watson bra size chart first, but I’m something of an anomaly I find as I have a very full upper bust! I made the 30I – the largest cup size available – which gave me a decent good fit.
For reference, at the time of making this longline bra, I measured:
- 27.5″ underbust
- 37″ full bust
- 34″ upper bust
Cutting out the front piece, back piece, and cup pieces was straightforward. I used tins of tuna to weigh the pattern pieces down (so pro, I know!). I traced around them with pencil (although I now have an air erasable pen which I used for the briefs), taking care with seam allowances and marking the right sides and wrong side clearly, since it’s easy to get mixed up when you’re working with stretch lace or outer fabric.
I’ve since made a couple more sizes from the pattern, and while it’s easy enough to print off and cut out more sizes, I’ve also traced out the main sizes I use (I bought this MASSIVE roll of tracing paper on Amazon) as they’re slightly longer lasting, plus it’s easier to make and keep any small alterations on tracing paper (I haven’t needed to fortunately!).
The above picture shows the bra in progress – I’d sewed together the cups, sewn the elastic onto the cups, the lining onto the cradle, and the powernet (band) onto the cradle. The cup seam construction was the trickiest part for me. Joining the inner cup to the outer cup at the center front needed careful stitching to avoid excess fabric and attaching the cups in the middle where the elastic was a bit bulky where it overlapped, but I think it gets easier with practice. The pattern instructions are clear, though, and I found it a great pattern for improving my bra sewing skills.
And here’s the finished product – a beautiful bra that feels surprisingly supportive for a first attempt. The longline bra option gives enough support at the back band, even with the lack of underwire, and the wear style is light, comfy, and perfect as a wearable toile.
I’ll admit, my elastic sewing could use more practice – I over-stretched some sections and under-stretched others, despite carefully using a zig-zag stitch along the lower edge and finishing the raw edges. The only issue was bulk at the top of the cups where the elastic overlapped, but that’s an easy pattern adjustment for the next version.
So you’re probably wondering how well it actually works in this size – pretty well I find! I have a self-supported shape anyway, so despite my size, I don’t actually need a huge amount of support – I’ll sometimes go out without a bra. I do find though that this gives me a small amount of lift, pushes me into the middle a bit, and has a nice supportive band – the longline helps very well with this. My first Watson was maybe a little snug at the bottom due to the elastic (I think I technically used strap elastic here, whoops!), but it loosened after a couple of wears and is now a good fit.
I made the matching briefs with some scrap fabric, using a zigzag stitch to finish. I’d picked up a few extras from Barnyarns (a little sewing shop I discovered 5 minutes walk from work!), including cotton jersey, a yard of jersey, and iDye for elastics.
These turned out to be a great way to practise lingerie sewing, and the set feels like a matching pair of undies you’d find during bra shopping, but with that amazing satisfaction of making it yourself.
So that’s that – what do you think of my first bra? This first version has a few quirks, but I can’t wait to make a second Watson in different fabrics, maybe something with stretch lace. And I’ve got my eye on a foam cups version too – perhaps a foam cup bra with more structure, or even experimenting with the Harriet bra from Cloth Habit for comparison.
Bra making is addictive – the only thing stopping me now is too many ideas and not enough hours!
If you’re interested, I’ve also now sewn a lot more lingerie pieces and blogged about them – here’s my Cloth Habit Harriet bra, plus a video I filmed on making it!
Bra Sewing Projects
Here are a few more of my bra and underwear sewing projects since making this one!
- Watson Bra Hack: Bodysuit
- Sewing: Boylston Bra Take Two
- Sewing: Boylston Bra, Corset & Briefs Set
- Sewing the Maya AFI Bra Review
- Sewing | Sew Curvy Corset Review
FAQs about the Cloth Habit Watson Bra
Is the Watson bra a good starting point for beginners?
Yes – the Watson bra pattern is often recommended as a good starting point if you’re new to bra making. There are relatively few pattern pieces, the pattern instructions are clear, and you don’t need to worry about underwires or padding for your first attempt. It’s a great way to practise sewing elastic, managing seam allowances, and understanding how a soft cup bra comes together.
Can you make a Watson bra with foam cups?
The original design is an unlined soft bra, but I’ve seen some sewists have experimented with adding foam cups for more structure. A foam cup bra version of the Watson can work well, though you’ll need to make some pattern adjustments to accommodate the extra thickness of the foam. It’s not included in the pattern instructions, but tutorials on the Cloth Habit blog and community projects show it can definitely be done.
How much support does a soft cup bra give for a full bust?
Support really depends on your cup size and fabric choice. A soft cup bra like the Watson bra has a comfortable wear style thanks to its longline option and wide back band, which add stability. For a full bust, it won’t give the same lift as an underwired bra, but with a firm power mesh or firm powernet, it provides enough support for everyday wear. Some sewists with larger cup sizes find it works perfectly as a lounge bra or under lighter clothes.
What fabrics work best for stretch bras?
The Watson is designed for stretch bras, so you’ll want to use fabrics with at least 30–50% stretch. Good options include cotton jersey, a yard of jersey, or stretch lace layered over power mesh for extra strength. Using the right outer fabric and inner cup lining will make a big difference to the fit band and overall comfort. Avoid non-stretch fabric unless you’re experimenting with a bikini pattern or structured style – the Watson needs stretch to work as intended.
Is it cheaper to make your own bras?
It depends. Buying a ready-to-wear bra can sometimes be cheaper upfront, especially fast-fashion options. But if you’re looking for a beautiful bra in a small band/large cup size, making your own can save money compared to boutique lingerie prices. A DIY bra lets you choose different fabrics, customise the bra style, and achieve a good fit without the markup. Once you’ve invested in a few tools and a bra kit, you’ll often find sewing your own bras becomes a cost-effective (and addictive!) hobby.
Can I sew my own bras?
Yes – you definitely can! With patterns like the Cloth Habit Watson Bra, more sewists are discovering that bra sewing is not as intimidating as it looks. If you can sew seams, manage right sides and wrong side, and handle elastic with a zig-zag stitch, you can make your first bra. The Watson sew along and tutorials on the Cloth Habit blog are excellent resources if you want to build your sewing skills step by step.
How much fabric is needed to make a bra?
For most soft bras, including the Watson, you’ll only need around half a metre to a yard of jersey or other suitable stretch fabrics plus some power mesh for lining. Add a small piece of stretch lace or outer fabric for the cup pieces, and you’ll still use much less than a standard garment project. It’s also a great excuse to use scrap fabric from other makes – you really don’t need much for the front piece, back piece, or bra cup sections.
Wow I’m SO impressed you made your own bra and pants! They look very professional and well fitting. You wouldn’t know it was a first attempt.
Although I don’t know if they do anything lingerie specific, there’s an online shop called Funki Fabrics which sells lots of stretch/lycra fabrics so they may be worth a look.
Thank you!! I I think it’s because it’s a really simple pattern to follow – it seems to come out very well for everyone 🙂 I think it needs a little bit of tweaking in the cup as it’s almost too small on the inside.
Ooh thanks for the tip, I’ll have a look! Wish it was easier to get hold of them in person too.
The stripes work so well with the long line design. I have a list of UK lingerie fabrics and findings supplies on my blog, plus a few in Europe with reasonable postage options.
Thanks 🙂 Ooh, I’ll stop by and have a look, sounds very useful!
Thank you SO much for sharing this!! I’ve been seriously debating buying the pattern myself, but as someone who’s a bit bustier than most of the people who’ve made it and shared reviews so far I wasn’t sure how it would work. I’m really wanting to make myself one or two to use as sleep bras while I’m nursing and it’s nice to know how it fits and supports on someone closer to my 30F size.
I’d definitely recommend the pattern! That’s why I wanted to share it, especially with photos of it being worn, as there don’t seem to be many/any in the bustier range. I think they’d be perfect for nursing – really comfortable and still has quite a bit of support too.
your boobies are like my boobies! tiny ribcage, big on top! I think I’ll have to try the 30I and see if it fits better. I did the 30D and the cups were too small still. Did you line your cups for extra support at all?
Ah yay, someone similar to me! How far off were the 30D cups? What are your measurements? Feel free to email them to me if you don’t want them on here, just I might be able to recommend you a better size for you 🙂 The 30I is 5 cup sizes bigger than the D, so if the D wasn’t too far off, the I might be a bit far.
I didn’t line the cups, just left them as they are, although I might try lining the cups in a future attempt to see how it works for me 🙂
Interesting read. I had totally dismissed this pattern because I wear a 32H, and my breasts need a lot of support, (I’m 45 and have had 6 babies!)
Looks really great on you, I am under no illusions it will look that good on me, but I’m thinking it may make a good sleep bra or soft bra for lazy days.
I definitely agree that it could work for you as a sleep bra or one for round the house 🙂 You may need to do a bit of scaling since the sizing is (sort of) US, so the H is technically smaller than I think you’d wear, but I don’t think it would be too hard. Let me know how you get on with it if you decide to try it!
The first thing I noticed was that the adjustment for the strap was in the front, where it belongs! Who decided that it should be on your back? you either need to guess what length your strap should be before you have it on or have someone else adjust it for you, once it is on! I have a question since I have never had a longline bra. Do they stay in place better than the average thinner banded bras do? I think it looks great on you!
Author
I was a bit worried at first about the front strap adjustment, that it would look strange, but I think that’s just because we’re used to seeing them at the back now – it’s definitely SO much easier having it at the front!
I don’t find that it stays in place much better than my normal banded bras (but I don’t have an issue with them moving around generally), but I do find that they’re a little bit more comfortable as it spreads the pressure of holding everything up over a larger area. Hope that helps a bit 🙂
And thank you!
Wow it looks amazing! I’m so impressed as bra’s are the most complex thing to sew! :O
Author
Oh, thank you! It wasn’t too bad as the instructions were very clear 🙂
I’ve been debating getting this pattern for a couple weeks, in spite of all the rave reviews. Your cute set of absolute cuteness and apparent functionality has pushed me over the edge! Thanks also for the links, as I’d be lost without them.
Well done!!!
Author
Ah yay, so glad you like the review and it was helpful for you! I really hope you enjoy sewing it and get a lovely set out of it too 🙂
Thank you for this! I haven’t seen many photos of this bra on real people, let alone on bustier ones. You say you don’t need a lot of support – besides being very jealous of you being able to go bra free, I’m wondering if you think it’ll support someone who does need it. I’m a little smaller but after having kids, I’m not as firm as I used to be.
Author
That’s what I thought when I posted it as I hadn’t seen it on anyone else bustier and thought others might like to see that too 🙂 I’m only really able to go braless if it’s something quite fitted or very loose (so you can’t see the outline!), but I think it would give a fair amount of support if you need it, particularly if you used a fairly sturdy material such as scuba fabric. Even so, it’s still great for wearing around the house as it’s a really comfortable shape 🙂
Ahh ok, I’ll give it a go. Thank you 🙂
Hi Sian, it looks amazing! How long did the bra take you to sew?
Author
Hi Anna – thank you! This was my first time sewing anything like this, so it took me a couple of days (with lots of breaks!) to cut it out and sew it up. I’ve now made a few Watson bras and can sew up the pattern in around a couple of hours 🙂
Hi Sian
I am watching this blog of yours from the very first post. I found some very elegant dresses on this which helped me a lot to make some dresses for me. Thanks for such a wonderful helping guide 🙂
Hey, you said you don’t tend to post your bikini pictures on this blog, yes I didn’t find yet. Can I ask whats the reason dear? Actually I want to buy some bikinis online If you tend to start posting your bikini pictures here. My figure is also same like you.I would be very thankful to you.
Author
Hi Shazia, thank you! I think you might have misunderstood slightly – I don’t tend to post bikini photos on this blog for 2 reasons: I don’t wear bikinis a lot (living in North Yorkshire!), but in saying I don’t tend to post those photos here, I mean because I publish them on my other blog instead, Big Cup Little Cup, which is focused entirely on underwear and bra fit, so that may be helpful to you 🙂
Oh I see. OK will visit that website “Big Cup Little Cup”. Hoping will get a better idea for some bikinis.
Thanks anywayz 🙂
Can you suggest me some more blogs like yours please?
Author
Hi Shazia – we have a list of other lingerie blogs here 🙂
Thanks Sian
I am so glad I found this review! I’m an 18H and also have been naturally blessed with boobs that are somewhat self supporting, and was really wondering whether I could tinker with the Watson, and I think now I might have to!
Author
I hope it works out well for you! It’s a lovely pattern and fun to make too 🙂
Thanks for this post and bravely adding pictures. I just bought the Watson pattern and I wear a 34 D so I was iffy about the support. My main reason for trying this pattern is I’m sick of underwires, bleh! You did a lovely job sewing this set up. Cheers.
Author
I really hope you like it! It is lovely for days when you don’t want to wear underwire and is fun to sew up too 🙂
I’m probably missing it but where’s the patterns?you certainly did a great job …hope i can come atleast close to doing it as good
Author
You can find the pattern at Cloth Habit for $15 here:
https://shop.clothhabit.com/products/watson-bra-bikini?variant=939719301
Thank you 🙂
Thanks so much for sharing this! It looks great and I love seeing what the finished bra actually looks like. I’ve been eyeing this pattern for a while and it looks like maybe it’s time to jump in and do it!